Critic’s Review: The Food At Sanjeev Kapoor’s Yellow Chilli Feels Like A Comforting Jhappi!

Food critic Rashmi Uday Singh reviews Yellow Chilli in Thane

Balle! Balle! From Ludhiana to  Los Angeles, Mumbai to Muscat. “Yellow Chilli” is the world’s largest Indian restaurant chain. And we are lunching at the legendary Sanjeev Kapoor’s  Yellow Chilli’s Thane branch. We are  raising a toast with a “dahi goli  shot” and a mojito! (see photo). On the table is a baraat of dishes from all over India. Leading that is the super comfort food the Brand India Khichdi which made it into the Guinness book of World Records. We enjoy it thoroughly and we will all return.. 

DÉCOR

Brightly lit and packed. Go up Viviana Mall’s escalators to the second floor and into the pleasantly appointed, well lit restaurant with a bar. Be greeted by a photo of Sanjeev Kapoor and a handsome all color menu with an intro about how this restaurant was born in 2001 when the maestro tasted the yellow chilli in Meerut.

FOOD

Three cheers for three notable points…authentic North Indian dishes not regularly served in restaurants (velvety and perfectly spiced dahi pakodi kadhi, lalla mussa daal,  rajma). Comfort food (the mellow, nourishing khichdi) as well as dishes with a modern spin (Shaam Savera, paneer and spinach roulades in a creamy tomato based gravy). Respect for the season (a special summer menu with delicious aam ras puri et al).  The well-priced Maharaja set menu is a worth try. From the delicious chilled dahi wada served in a shot glass with a dollop of tangy chutney, aloo chaat to the gulkand gulab jamun which packs a sweet juicy wallop. Go for them.

MINUS POINTS

Slow service. No tea or coffee. Overcooked kadai prawns, ditto for the tomato fish of the set menu. Though the mutton pieces of the nalli nihari were succulent the gravy was overbearing. Butter chicken though creamy, could do with more kasuri methi and the mushroom shabnam e moti with less cheese. Desserts did not match up to the main meal, be it the mango kulfi or brownie. 

MY POINT

As is my policy, I made it a point  to go unannounced and do a surprise check (thankfully, wasn’t recognised as we tasted our way through the menu and paid the full bill). I’ve known Padmashree awardee, author, serial entrepreneur and founder of a TV channel, the legendary Sanjeev Kapoor for decades. But, frankly, I did not expect a chain restaurant in a mall to serve up such disciplined cooking at such moderate price points. His take on Indian food is simple, varied and nimble.  A fine example of  his laudable pragmatism. Authentic flavours leap up from the dishes and give a warm comforting jhappi (Punjabi word for hug). Oye! Balle balle! 

2nd Floor Viviana Mall, Eastern Express Highway, Thane West

Meal for two: Rs 1500

All pictures courtesy Yellow Chilli