Critic's Review: Slow-Cooked Raan And Mutton Samosas At A Secret Location That Shouldn't Be Missed!

Served over 7 courses, it's the 'mother' of all meals!

I’m stumped.  Call it ‘thaali’ call it ‘thaal’ but how do I define this finger-licking (literally too) shortcut to bliss? Guilt-free, non-stop tasting of many a dish? A taste of culture? Yes, all this and more. Over the years I’ve been on a thaali high be it the South Indian (A Rama Nayak Udipi or Mani Bhawan) or the Gujarati (Shri Thacker Bhojanalaya). Till now it’s been only about vegetarian thaalis (except for a fly by night non-vegetarian Bohri thaal restaurant in Grant road).

Decor

We drive into a leafy Colaba lane, walk up two flights of stairs, and find ourselves in a simply done up big room with one thaal. We’re at The Bohri Kitchen.  I Google to find it listed as a restaurant on many a site. Seats are available by booking only restaurant with an undisclosed location. The only other such restaurant I’ve dined in was the 1,000 usd per head Ultraviolet in Shanghai. Of course, at TBK, the experience is very different. It’s a family saga. The cook is the mom (Nafisa), the head of operations is the father (Turab) and the CEO (Chief Eating Officer) is the son Munaf Kapadia.  And they all come with the thaal because for sure, the thaal is the star.  

Food

Here’s what you’re served – a seven- or eight-course Dawoodi Bohra meal with a fascinating tutorial commentary on what,  why and how to eat it. Opt to sit on the floor or table, where six to eight people eat out of one large thaal. Flag off with the tradition of a pinch of salt from the namak dani (a natural anti-bacterial palate cleanser and tastebud activator”).  I taste both the non-vegetarian  and vegetarian thaal. Ooh I love the rule of biting the corner of the smoked Mutton Kheema Patti Samosas, squeezing nimbu juice and smearing it with fresh pudina chutney and taking another bite (“the combined acidity magnifiies the ghungaar (smokey) flavour”). The alternating courses – “Kharaas Meethas”  (savory sweet) – has us in seventh heaven. After the samosas and cutlets it’s the kissed with sweetness, flaky pastry plump with velevet malai. Rich, succulent, slow-cooked Raan (marinated in a red masala for two days), contrasts with the wholesome jaggery-infused broken wheat and Chana Bateta Thulli.  Soul-warming, simple smoked Daal Chawal Palida, Smoked Tur Daal with Baingan Bharta and Papad. Finale of bursting with hand-churned mango saancha ice cream, magai jodi paan.

Minus Points

Two flights of stairs. No lift. Only advance booking. NSKP (no serial killer) policy of having to introduce yourself can be a pain. And booking depends on the number of people. Overload of masala on Chicken Angara, fancy sounding but ordinary Naariyal Kebabs, oversweet Kesar Serbet.

My Point

It’s an experience .. The undisclosed location in Colaba adds to the mystique. As do the fascinating how tos and whys of eating explained by the articulate young Munaf Kapadia. Meats cooked to perfect temperatures and textures and have a dreamy richness. Equally delightful vegetarian thaal too.  I cannot vouch for the consistency, simply because it is a homegrown venture and because I have not been able to go back to recheck it unannounced (as I always do).